march 2

Day 4 began for me with a magnificent sunrise over the Pacific and a leisurely breakfast. The waves rolling into the bluffs, the birds singing, and the cows mooing made an unimaginably beautiful morning completely brilliant.

We started out on our way and turned off shortly after, just south of Papatowai at Cathedral Caves. We had to attack this short hike before 9:30am, or we would be denied access by the rising tide. We nearly ran down the trail and found the caves before the waves were too close. Walking inside was eerie and damp. At one point we couldn't see the ground (sand or seaweed) beneath our feet. So many of New Zealand's sights have been carved by water or ice in such a variety of ways; including these towering doorways into the rock.

Feeling pretty good about beating the tide, we trudged back up the trail and drove out of the park before the gates closed at 10:30am. The drive to Invercargill was uneventful. We have been amazed at the amount of sheep in New Zealand; particularly because no mammals are native to this island country.

Once we reached Invercargill, it took a bit for Marty, our navigator, to get his map in the right direction and put us near the city centre. We did find a wonderful little museum with WWII propaganda posters, photography, Maori artifacts, a display on The World's Fastest Indian, and eggs of the world. Our stop at the museum would not have been complete if I didn't mention Henry. Henry is a Tuatara. The peculiar thing about Henry is that he is nearly 130 years old (estimated birth in 1880). Not only that, but after many years of celibacy and removal of a tumor, Henry is now father to a new litter of these lizard-like animals. His mate was a 20 year old named Juliet.

This centre also had a tremendously helpful visitors' information with Internet. After spending a solid hour, or more, at this fine traveler-friendly establishment, Genevieve and I enjoyed Turkish wraps and coffee for lunch. Post-late lunch, we met up at the Speights Bar, pulled out a map and an actual planning session ensued! We determined our stop for the night should be Te Anua. From there, Kevin and Marty would hike out four days on the Kepler Track and hitchhike to meet Genevieve, J, and myself in Queenstown. I would have loved to do the track, but I haven't been able to shake the cold. This planning session was the first time we pulled out a South Island, detailed map to look ahead a few days and determine what we would do.

We broke up the meeting and set out fro Te Anua. Arriving there, we soon understood that we were in a tourist town. Internet was expensive, we found many tourist and outdoors shops, and "no vacancy" signs outnumbered the "vacancy." We hoped to camp, but at $15nz per person, we had no intention in indulging after our free or minimal cost sites of previous nights. We did however concede to get a $25nz bunk room for the five of us at a backpackers so we could sort ourselves out, clean up with a shower, and do our laundry. Marty and Kevin purchased some hiking supplies and we checked into our accommodation to prepare for our early morning exit.

*favorite photos: sunrise over the Tasman Sea, the silouette at Cathedral Caves, and J with the tuatara (one of a series of three).