weight of the world

Today marks the end of my adventure that started on October 4. I have completed my journey at my parents house in Alliston, Ontario and have another 9 days to recoup, reorganize, and sift through my 3000-some photos before driving back to the Chicago area with mom.

The last six months will certainly not be ones I intend to readily forget. The experiences I hold as my own and were able to share with Laura, as well as, the rest of the community in Antarctica captivated my emotions and imagination, challenged me, and provided plenty of new thoughts to mull over. The trip was all inclusive, with moments of happiness and frustration, sadness and sympathy, energetic excitement, and mindless mornings. I experienced a new job, an extraordinary place, a touch of romance, the drama of a small community, and eternal daylight. I was present for the sorrows and joys of other people over things going on near and far. Sometimes I could listen, other times, I had to pull away and offer space in our cramped town. I saw the southern hemisphere, experienced the loss of smell, I knocked off another two continents, I lived under eternal daylight, and felt my nose hairs freeze. I made myself at home in New Zealand and Australia, and learned to be the "one who talks funny," "just an American," a "Yank," the tourist who perpetually carries her camera, and so on...

From here, I'll travel west and begin a summer fresh. I'll have a new blog (keep your eyes open for some new links at this web address), I'll have a new job (hopefully), I'll have a new place to live, and new people to meet. But, now, in addition to my friends and family, I have a new consortium of oddly placed, strangely connected, and beautiful friends all over the nation and world who I hope to bump into on street corners and in airports along life's track.

With that in mind, I shall relinquish the weight of the world to those in Antarctica (at least for the summer) and find myself again soon on the Pacific Coast, standing on my own two feet, looking for a new job and new community there.

Thanks for the memories, the encouragement, the time, and all the communication.

some super signs

Driving around two new countries meant reading and interpreting some new road signs. I found some interesting roadside markers.

First, the speed limit signs are not difficult to miss. In fact, they reminded me of a target; aim for this speed. In fact, I probably hit the actual speed as often as I'd get a bulls eye. Getting used to the kilometer per hour was a bit confusing at first; especially without cruise control.

The second sign was a simple exclamation point. This sign indicated that special notice and caution needed to be taken around corners, over dips or bumps in the road, or in this case, the upcoming road construction.

In Australia, I came across many wildlife signs that were a bit different than the deer crossing signs of the Midwest United States. Dead, or alive, I saw each of the three animals on this sign; plenty of kangaroo, a dead wombat, and a beautiful brown male lyre bird.

The last caution indicates the road might be slippery "when frosty." This seemed like a whimsical way of labeling a road condition, but how Ice is addressed in Australia and New Zealand. I think I like it frosty.

food, drinks, and driving

There are a few things that stick out on the food and drink menu in New Zealand that I will miss. First, there are the amazing deli treats from sandwiches to quiche and bakery items. It seemed that every café we visited had a unique selection of tasty goods with equally delicious coffees. Second, I discovered kumara. This sweet potato-esque root is quite flavorful; especially kumara chips (steak fries). I ate this bag ‘o fries for dinner one night; probably not the most healthy of indulgences, but I enjoyed every bite!

Speaking of indulgences, I definitely found myself addicted to the New Zealand chocolate. I heard people say their taste in chocolate changed after having New Zealand’s cocoa product. I packed my bag with chocolate bars to take home, it was so good! There is something about the smooth texture and perfect fruity flavor of the kiwi chocolate, or the rich milky flavor to the Cadbury Dairy Milk bar!

My favorite kiwi treat is pavlova. We occasionally had this item for dessert in Antarctica, so I hoped to find some in New Zealand. This temptation is a bit like a wafer and a bit like angel food cake with whipped cream and fruit on top. One of the things Jeremy and I had opportunity to do while I was in Auckland was attempt our own pavlova. We had a great time beating egg white lifeless and dumping in heaps of sugar. The pavlova is supposed to rise up in the oven and then “toast” a bit in the oven after the heat is turned off. Our pavlova did not quite make it up to the lofty heights we intended. In fact, we called it a pancake, or “American Pavlova” since it remained quite flat. When the project was complete, the end result was still tasty (what wouldn’t be with that much sugar)!

I also discovered some great beverages. Bundaberg’s Ginger Beer is an Australian product I hope to have more of while I’m on that continent. It’s a bit like ginger ale with more ginger (and no ale). L&P is a New Zealand flavored soda. I enjoyed both drinks though I have been staying away from the carbonation.

Then there is driving. Though, I maintain a sober mentality when it comes to alcohol, one might think I’ve had a few when I turn on the windshield wipers, rather than the turn signals. Driving from the right side of the car on the left side of the road has a different feel to it, but I caught on pretty quickly. It also helped that I spent 6.5 hours of driving time by myself returning our rental car on the south island. The only thing more complicated than thinking in the left lane, was driving Kirrin’s manual; shifting gears with my left hand. All for experience!

auckland adventure

My time in Auckland passed quickly, but wonderfully. Kirrin and Jeremy were amazing hosts and I am glad I had a week to spend with them. My only regret is that I didn’t get to see their dragon boating competition today since my flight left far too early this morning. I was able to watch their training in the rain earlier in the week, so I could take in what dragon boating is all about!

Kirrin kept quite busy with school and sport activities, and Jeremy had a number of things to take care of on his week of holiday, but I was more than content to tag along with them as they lived their lives.

The unfortunate part of living their normal lives was that I also got to experience a New Zealand car accident with Jeremy on our way to the beach the second day I was in town. We were side-swiped by another car as we intended to park. After our nerves cooled down, we still did take a stroll through the market and enjoyed a wonderful breakfast near the water in Auckland. We spent time with Kirrin’s sisters, Jamie and Courtney, and her darling nieces at a swimming pool. My favorite quote from the four year old was, "Why do you talk funny?" We watched Kirrin’s volleyball matches, walked around the city, and visited the Winter Gardens before dropping Kirrin off at the University. We met up with a few of their friends and dropped in at a few cafes for coffee and a quick bite to eat.

Jeremy and I also spent a short afternoon at One Tree Hill. This scenic volcanic cone should be called No Tree Hill as, due to political issues, someone outrageously chopped the “one” tree on the top of the hill down. Never-the-less, we enjoyed the amazing view from the top of the hill of sheep pastures and parks surrounded by city.

The highlight of the week was having dinner with Kirrin and Jeremy at the Sky Tower. The dinner was quite lovely. Kirrin challenged me to eat a raw oyster. I chewed and swallowed, but still prefer them fried with a little butter! But, now I can say I’ve eaten a raw one. We also took a trip to the top of the tower. We walked around to take in the extraordinary night lights over the city. They have glass floors in parts of the observation deck which give a disconcerting view of the city below. We concluded the night in the tower, enjoying a drink with a live band. I had a fantastic time.

march 8

I departed Wanaka at 4:35am. I felt mildly guilty for kicking J and Kevin out of their overnight accomodations in the van, but I wanted to get a good start on the trip so I could stop along the way if I wanted to.

My morning was spectacular. Outside of Wanaka, I drove in darkness, but my eyes adjusted to the night sky and I began to see the shapes and shadows of hills around me. A few starts popped out of the clouds in the Southern sky.

Stopping in Omarama for gas at 6am, I tried using the Fastrac automatic machine and it wouldn't take my cards. I was analyzing my fuel supply against the next probable town for gas (Lake Tekapo, 100km away), and realized I had to wait for the station to open at 7am. Thankfully, a man arriving early to do some work at the garage used his card to get me $50nz of gas which I paid him cash for. Phew! I owe him a big 'thank you!'

On my way again, the sky began to lighten and hills and mountains peaked from the darkness. Stars faded over the snow-capped mountains as I drove around Lake Pukaki. What a grand morning to stop and take photos.

The only casualties of the morning were that of three rabbits I clipped. I've never seen so many animals hopping all over the road. I felt bad, but kept driving; 110 kilometers per hour. It was kind of like the day at Calvin College when there were so many nightcrawlers on the sidewalk, you would inevitably step on them.

Geraldine was the next stop on the list. I had a quick bit to eat and stopped long enough to talk to the cafe host for a few minutes. I enjoy meeting people who let their American opinions known. He was very amiable and stimulated good-hearted communication!

My last scenic stop was at Rakaia Gorge. The waters were a glacial aqua color and the weather, outstanding! I walked around a bit, stretched my legs, snagged some pictures and hit the road.

I arrived in Christchurch with enough time to check into the YMCA for two nights, drop my bags off, and collect my belongings at the USAP offices before returning the car. I was a little bit lonely on my return to Christchurch, so it was nice to see Austin at the USAP computer lab and meet up with him at the restaurant, Dux de Lux.

And, so ends my 10 day, 5 person roadtrip around the South Island. I have a day and a half in Christchurch before taking off for a week in Auckland.

march 7

Today it is rained in Queenstown. As disappointing as it is for traveling and hiking, we feel relieved for this portion of New Zealand to have some water to fill their drought-burdened lands. I can imagine finding a lot to do in Queenstown if we could scratch beneath the advertising dollars and college-like atmosphere.

Despite my disappointment in the consumerism, since returning from The Ice, I am enjoying my time in New Zealand, and I am glad I have the company of J, Kevin, Marty, and Genevieve. I'll miss them when I say goodbye in the morning!

From Queenstown we traveled the scenic and short route to Wanaka. I love this town and wish I could spend more time in between the beautiful hills and lake! The weather was rainy most of the day and we spent a lot of time sipping coffee, looking for a backpackers with vacancy. We cleaned the van, met up with Ben (from Antarctica), and had Indian food for dinner! I wandered around the town and waterfront fro awhile which was nice. Ben and I also caught up for a bit about where we had been since leaving McMurdo.

Tomorrow, in a few hours, I wake up to drive solo back to Chirstchurch. I am looking forward to the solitude and seeing the geography between Wanaka and the East Coast.

march 6

Day 8 began with a restful morning asleep, followed by a restful morning changing rooms casually, making breakfast and crocheting a hat (I haven’t yet ventured to try more than a hat). The days recently have been “slow down and catch up” days and I have certainly found ways to appreciate that. Here I am in Queenstown where bungy jumping was born and adventure sports abound, and I have simply enjoyed just sitting in our room, watching the world go by outside our windows!

After a couple cups of tea and finishing my hat, I did venture out to find a book of Maori myths and legends. I kind of hoped to find a children's book with colorful pictures that reflected Maori art. What I found was a paperback with 28 stories written by a whiteman and illustrated by one, too. However, this seems to be a gem (ie. I can't buy it from amazon.com in the states) and the first two stories I read capture the games of the Maori gods quite well. I liken them to the accounts of Native American beliefs and the epic adventures of the Greek gods. The writings are what children's bedtime stories are made of.

I spent some time in search of an ostrich burger today, as well. I never found one, but we have seen some ostrich farms and I am curious of the taste. Instead, Genevieve and I walked down to the Queenstown famous, Fergburger restaurant and indulged in one of their unique and flavorful fergburgers. They were quite large and scrumptious but still no comparison to the Bonzai Burger at Red Robin (Incidentally, I'm looking forward to dining with some of you back home there when I return to the states)!

Beyond those activities, I strolled downtown a bit, met up again with Marty and Kevin and saw a couple more Ice people. I am glad I had time to relax and reflect!

march 5

Waking up to fire in the sky was simply incredible. The sunrise was so vivid and bold this morning as it rose behind a cloud cover. The colors were extreme and then slowly pasteled out to morning's blue sky. They intensity of light on clouds had to be the most beautiful sunrise I've witnessed lately (perhaps more because I don't get up early often)!

No one (of the two cards to drive by our clandestine camp) asked us to move and we slept soundly all night. Quickly arranging the van appropriately for traveling again, we buzzed away to find a lauded breakfast spot in Garston. We arrived to find it closed on Mondays. Dismayed, we moved on towards Kingston and pulled into the Kingston Corner Cafe & Bar.

The food was a bit pricey for our backpacking wallets, but we made up for it in the time we spent journaling and writing postcards. The three of us have a pretty good trialogue, but we also do well at being quiet together. Over my delicious homemade quiche, mochaccino, and boysenberry & apple juice, I wrote a good amount and danced through the events of the past two weeks in my mind.

We continued our drive towards Queenstown. It's strange that Kingston is so small in comparison to his queen's tourism hot spot. Queenstown is located on Lake Wakatipu, and at our first glimpse of the Lake's southern shore, we stopped to take in the clear blue waters and ridge lines above it. After a couple such stops, we picked up a few groceries and checked into Pinewood Lodge. This place has to be one of the best backpackers for your buck! Their rooms are clean and offer a shared kitchen, living area, and bathrooms. They have lots of services available and are in walking distance of downtown Queenstown. The three of us got a 3-bed room for one night and tomorrow will move into a room where Kevin and Marty can join us as well.

After settling in, we took a walk downtown and searched out places to eat or sit for awhile. I indulged in a frappuccino at Starbucks and we walked along the water. We also ran into Maria, Candy, and Keegan from The Ice and spoke with them for awhile.

A delicacy this time of the year in New Zealand is the Bluff Oyster. This seasonal treat has been hard to come by after a few bad weather harvesting days, but we noticed a sign up for them at the Fishbone Bar & Grill. Four of us splurged and got three oysters each. They were quite tasty!

We had the three Ice folks over for a light supper of buns, cheese, crackers and fruit. I have found a new drink similar to ginger ale that I enjoy: Ginger Beer. I finished off a bottle and had a glass of wine before resting my weary head in a real bed!

*favorite photo: fire-like sunrise

march 4

We woke up in the van late. It is Sunday after all. We had a lose plan for the day which included heading back to Te Anua and camping somewhere our of town. After packing up our fly-ridden camp, we drove a bit over an hour back to Te Anua and found a quaint cafe and some brunch. The three of us sat and talked and watched the world go by on a Sunday mid-morning. This was the first place I came across filter coffee and they served us a bottomless cup.

J took off on another boat tour to the glow worm caves, so Genevieve and I got some groceries and postcards. We headed to the visitor's centre and walked around some. Genevieve became familiar with some of the birds in the area, we cleaned up the van, restored our water supply, and then I found a little spot by Lake Te Anua to hunker down and grind out a few postcards.

By the time J arrived back from his excursion, we felt like we'd accomplished a lot of rest. To top off the day I had kiwi frozen yogurt atop a scoop of orange chocolate chip on the bottom. Mmm.

To avoid the tourist town of Te Anua for another evening, we decided to drive towards Queenstown and find a camping spot near the road in the country. Between Garston and Kingston we found a dirt road between farms and fields and decided another night in the van was in order. That way, if we were asked to leave our parking spot we could make a quick escape.

After cooking dinner and marveling at the sunset (both sides of the sky lit up with fantastical colors) over tea, we watched the moon rise through the clouds in our window-full van. What more could we ask for: a sunset and a moonrise!

*favorite photo: moonrise.

march 3

Today, our fifth day of traveling together, Genevieve, J, and I set out early (at 6:30am) for Milford Sound. As we drove through the hills and approached the mountains and fjords, we saw fog and clouds rolling in and out of the valleys and over peaks and saddles in the mountain ranges. The morning was beautiful as the sun came up through the mist on our drive. We noted plenty of nice camp spots on our way, as well.

Arriving in Milford Sound, we instantly recognized a sandfly problem. The picture is a model sandfly. In actuality, the pests are quite small. These pesky critters are like mosquitoes in their mannerisms, and surpass the mosquito numbers in Fjordlands National Park. As long as we kept moving, we seemed to be ok. The dock for our Milford Sound breakfast cruise was a brief walk from the parking lot. On the way, there were a few signs explaining how Maori gods created the fjords and how the sandfly was created by the goddess of the underworld to remind people not to linger too long in the beautiful pristine area.

The three of us boarded our big boat and sat down for a delicious light breakfast of croissant and muesli. It did not take long to start seeing the beauty of the Sound. A magnificent waterfall fell on the starboard side of the boat. The ride was comfortable downstairs, but the real views came above on the deck. The green on the cliffs popped out of the shadows with remarkable color. With such brilliant life around us in every direction, it's amazing that this part of New Zealand is struggling through an 80 year drought. Typically waterfalls line the fjord, but today, only four falls had water dropping down them. I supposed this could be attributed to that beast called "global warming." The area usually sees rain every one in three days, but they haven't seen more than 1/2 day in the last 30-some days.

Our tour continued through the fjord along cliffs that dropped straight into the Sound. Trees, mosses, and bushes grow off the vertical rock faces.

The Real Journeys boat we were on also took an unprecedented round-about into the Tasman Sea. Usually these tours cannot venture into the Sea, so we got a fantastic little Taste of Tasman. On the return trip, we skirted the opposite side of the waterway. Fur seals were spotted on a single outcropping of rocks along the way. Genevieve, J, and I found it humorous that everyone ran to that side of the boat while we mosied on over figuring we had seen plenty of the sea creatures already. We did get to see these smaller seals pose adorably on the boulders for us!

A little further on, the tour guide on board found two crested penguins on the shore. These birds were out of place and season, so it was particularly exciting to see this rare variety of bird on our cruise!

We passes by another waterfall (where it is said if a woman passes under the mist of the falls, she will feel 10 years younger the next morning. The boat scoots in real close to these falls so we can all scurry to the front and feel the spray.

The three of us were glad to have indulged int he cruise. It was a wonderful way to experience parts of Milford Sound we wouldn't have seen otherwise! After the cruise, we walked back to the cafe and visitor's centre, sat with a cup of coffee and mulled over plans for the day. I really appreciate the casual attitude the three of us have. We have lost the rush of the east coast travel and eased our way up and around the west.

Our first stop on the way out of Milford Sound was The Chasm. A short walk brought us to a place where the water carved out softer stone to leave the harder rock behind. Holes, bridges, and tunnels dot this fascinating place. None of the pictures and postcards I have seen quite demonstrate the depth perception and quirkiness of the place. When we returned to the car, five tour buses had rolled up. We were fortunate to avoid most of that crowd.

Another feature of this Milford expedition was the Homer Tunnel. This single-lane hole through the mountain was not lit when we drove in before 8am. Driving through a dark cave is a strange feeling, but we made it safely. On our return trip, not only was the tunnel lit, but it also had stoplights on either end directing the single-lane traffic.

Our highlight of the day was stopping at The Divide and hiking part of the Routeburn Track. The three of us set out through a green forest, across a few trickling streams, and a lake. Genevieve and I wanted to head up to Key Summit, so we left J to hike up to McKenzie Hut while we turned back to take a cutoff up a hill. The view we took in astounded us. In 360 degrees we took in four mountain ranges. We stood on a marshy plateau with three valleys cutting beneath us. From here, rainfall streams down into each of those valleys in different directions. It made our climb worthwhile to see so much unimaginable creation! God certainly took his time developing this part of the earth!

I have been so impressed with how well-maintained the tracks in New Zealand are! They came complete with campsites, or cabins on many of the longer routes! The cabins are quite nice and homely with a kitchen, bunk room, and bathroom facilities. The trails are easy to find and well-maintained with bridges and culverts.

We also saw many birds while in the Milford area. One small songbird sang beautifully until it ended the tune with a squawk; every time! We also saw another kea (the alpine parrot).

By the time J arrived back at the car, we were sufficiently tired by our 12-15km of hiking, so we looked for a campsite right away. The sandflies were so horrendous that we decided to stay in the van. J and I hopped out to quick whip up some rice for dinner and pay our $5nz each for the site. Other than that, we rearranged our seats and gear to sleep.

*favorite photos: waterfall and fern shadow.

march 2

Day 4 began for me with a magnificent sunrise over the Pacific and a leisurely breakfast. The waves rolling into the bluffs, the birds singing, and the cows mooing made an unimaginably beautiful morning completely brilliant.

We started out on our way and turned off shortly after, just south of Papatowai at Cathedral Caves. We had to attack this short hike before 9:30am, or we would be denied access by the rising tide. We nearly ran down the trail and found the caves before the waves were too close. Walking inside was eerie and damp. At one point we couldn't see the ground (sand or seaweed) beneath our feet. So many of New Zealand's sights have been carved by water or ice in such a variety of ways; including these towering doorways into the rock.

Feeling pretty good about beating the tide, we trudged back up the trail and drove out of the park before the gates closed at 10:30am. The drive to Invercargill was uneventful. We have been amazed at the amount of sheep in New Zealand; particularly because no mammals are native to this island country.

Once we reached Invercargill, it took a bit for Marty, our navigator, to get his map in the right direction and put us near the city centre. We did find a wonderful little museum with WWII propaganda posters, photography, Maori artifacts, a display on The World's Fastest Indian, and eggs of the world. Our stop at the museum would not have been complete if I didn't mention Henry. Henry is a Tuatara. The peculiar thing about Henry is that he is nearly 130 years old (estimated birth in 1880). Not only that, but after many years of celibacy and removal of a tumor, Henry is now father to a new litter of these lizard-like animals. His mate was a 20 year old named Juliet.

This centre also had a tremendously helpful visitors' information with Internet. After spending a solid hour, or more, at this fine traveler-friendly establishment, Genevieve and I enjoyed Turkish wraps and coffee for lunch. Post-late lunch, we met up at the Speights Bar, pulled out a map and an actual planning session ensued! We determined our stop for the night should be Te Anua. From there, Kevin and Marty would hike out four days on the Kepler Track and hitchhike to meet Genevieve, J, and myself in Queenstown. I would have loved to do the track, but I haven't been able to shake the cold. This planning session was the first time we pulled out a South Island, detailed map to look ahead a few days and determine what we would do.

We broke up the meeting and set out fro Te Anua. Arriving there, we soon understood that we were in a tourist town. Internet was expensive, we found many tourist and outdoors shops, and "no vacancy" signs outnumbered the "vacancy." We hoped to camp, but at $15nz per person, we had no intention in indulging after our free or minimal cost sites of previous nights. We did however concede to get a $25nz bunk room for the five of us at a backpackers so we could sort ourselves out, clean up with a shower, and do our laundry. Marty and Kevin purchased some hiking supplies and we checked into our accommodation to prepare for our early morning exit.

*favorite photos: sunrise over the Tasman Sea, the silouette at Cathedral Caves, and J with the tuatara (one of a series of three).

march 1

Day 3 began with an amazing sunrise over the ocean. We pulled up camp after a leisurely breakfast and headed back out on our beautiful Coastal Road for a nice morning drive watching the countryside light up.

Our first drive, not too far down the coast was to the Moeraki Boulders. As soon as we got out of the car, Genevieve and I saw a dolphin pop up over the surf. We were laughing at the peculiarity of seeing them! The boulders on the beach here were strange and tortoise life. They were massive round stones all over the sand. We played around them in our bare feet and visited the gift shop.

We boarded the caboose again and made a bit of headway down the West Coast until we saw a sign for the Evansdale Cheese Factory. We caught the owner just before he closed for the day and he stuffed us full of about 4-5 different cheeses. My favorite was a Dutch flavor, Komene Kaas, made with cumin seed. I bought a small wedge. We have quite a large amount of cheese in our vehicle with no chilly bin (the Kiwi lingo for cooler) to put it in.

A traveling goal for the group this day was Dunedin. We rolled down the hills into the heart of the city where we stopped, nibbled on some lunch and then I split from the group. They went on the Speights Brewery Tour while I took a walk to the train station (one of the most well photographed buildings in this part of the world). The architecture was magnificent, and if I remember correctly, this building was completed in 1906. My stroll was brief through the courtyard before my eye caught the Cadbury Factory.

I toured the chocolate factory and received the lovely chocolate samples from Wama, my friendly tour guide. The chocolate at this factory goes to the South Pacific, Canada, the Middle East, Australia (and, Antarctica). They have one whole silo devoted to tourists where they release one ton of liquid chocolate through the silo in front of our eyes! The inside of the silo is covered in chocolate splashes and we were able to walk down the chocolate coated stairs with chocolate coated railings. If nothing else in the tour made a person smiles, all that flowing chocolate certainly would! I exited the factory smelling of cocoa (from Malaysia), whole milk (from Otago area cows in NZ), and sugarcane (from Australia)!

In Dunedin, I also took a picture of what has been named the steepest street in the world; although, I may have looked at the wrong one. I'm also not completely convinced that this claim is true. It seems to me that there is probably some mud and dirt road in Siberia that could legitimately claim the same thing!

I made my way back to the car and we exchanged tour information. I passed out some chocolates (a well-received gesture).

On the road again, we took a peninsular scenic road that cuts off from Dunedin for a 28km trek to see seals, penguins, and albatross. Unfortunately, we didn't see the penguins, but we did get real close to the fur seals and watched a few albatross float above u! It was pretty amazing to see such diverse wildlife in one place!

The scenic drive was a close cut road between many hills and bluffs and the clear shallow bay below. J fantasized our green machine into the drink and offered ways of escaping with our backpacks. Genevieve just hoped to see the yellow-eyed penguin. I just sat back and enjoyed the beautiful ocean, islands, bluffs, grasses, flowers, and trees on Otago peninsula!

After Dunedin, we looked for a place to camp. Our tastes are somewhat particular as a group. Eventually, we decided to find a beach to camp on and so the search commences for an appropriate place to put down our camping gear. On our search, we came across a short trail to the Papakaunui Falls. The hike was only about 10 minutes each way and I ran the trail back ot the car, but, we found later, these falls are what postcards are made of around this area.

Soon after, driving around the town of Papatowai, and even inquiring about a backpackers cottage with no vacancy, we set out to make camp at a pullout on the road. This bluff was on an amazing spot overlooking cattle and sheep fields with the surf and coastline far below. We set up camp in the dark and made our way to bed quite quickly. I still have a cold and want to get optimal sleep.

*favorite photos: the Papakaunui Falls and orange flowers on the southwest New Zealand coast.

february 28

Waking up to a cloudy sky was not what we hoped for, but we packed up camp and headed towards the Bealey Valley Track we drove by the day before (tracks are the Kiwi way of saying "trail"). The track meanders via boardwalk through a forest and marshland before breaking into a valley that almost appeared to be a canyon. The misty morning proved to add an extra element of mystery to our hike. There is a certain beauty to fog laying thick on green trees and mosses. I can't quite describe how green it is in New Zealand! As we crawled over boulders and a streams, we were privy to a view higher and higher up the valley until we saw a waterfall into the stream, and a bit further up we saw a snow cave straddling the valley. At this point we turned around so J could make his doctor appointment in Christchurch. We made out way to the car and I appreciated the flex and strain on my muscles the whole way. We also saw a Kea, the only alpine parrot, along our trek. This bird likes to peck at shoelaces and shoes in general, so we kept our distance from the big bird. It seems funny that we compare nearly every bird we see to the Antarctic Skua.

This hike was an excellent start to Day 2 of our adventure. We headed back to Christchurch and took care of all the business we had to do in town. We said a few more goodbyes, and then the five of us boarded the caboose and made our way south on Highway 1 through sheep territory.

Our first stop, nearly three or four hours laster was a quick skip down the beach at St. Andrews. The stones on this beach were all round or oval and pretty flat. It reminded me of massage stones. If only we had time tot heat them up and lay them under our feet and on our backs! Genevieve also spotted a shark skeleton on the beach which we found particularly engaging. You'll note in the picture that Genevieve found a special sort of appreciation for him. We considered putting him on the grill of our van, but ended up allowing him to rest on the stones.

We continued our trek south in search of camping. Our search brought us along the path of some friendly supermarket clerks, a man with long dreds, three children, and a traveling couple who all gave us directions to Campbell Bay (which Genevieve had earlier interpreted as "camel bay" from the man with dreds). The ocean side drive was gorgeous as the sun set over the Pacific's rolling waves! Our campsite was amazing: $5nz for our vehicle put us on a cliff overlooking the beach and ocean and bluffs, right outside of Kakanui.