big blue boots

Random Fact of the Day: Did you know the ozone hole, this year, is larger than ever noted before? I’ll be slathering on the sunscreen!

Tia and I just estimated that the time we spent on planes coming down here was around 32 hours:

ORD – DEN - DEN – LAX – AUK – CHC – MCMURDO – CHC – MCMURDO

Time spent in airports would put that estimate over 48 hours! It feels great to unpack and stretch out for awhile—like the next five months!

Arriving on the Ice for the first time is exhilarating! Stepping carefully off a C-17 cargo plane in my enormous blue boots and onto 12 foot thick sea ice is an experience I never dreamed of having. Besides taking in the ice, I looked around to white and blue horizons on each side with mountain ranges and the white hills of McMurdo speckled with dirt. We squished into our shuttle vehicles that slowly crawled up to McMurdo.

Because we were on a boomerang flight the day before, and the weather conditions were so poor flying into Antarctica, we did not expect to land yesterday. In fact, we were all convinced we would make our attempts and boomerang back to New Zealand, again, so when we felt touchdown, we were shocked! None of us really knew what to do next, but we all methodically put on our ECW (Extra Cold Weather) Gear and made our way towards the door!

Today was my first day of work. We first took an outdoor tour of the town. It was informational, however, I realized there is more here than I expected. We had a couple more safety meetings today, too. They emphasize safety over and over again, which is good, given the volatile environment we are in, but it gets tedious after awhile! We are also required to drive each vehicle for a few minutes so we know the procedures for starting and stopping them.

So, we took out a van and I took my very first drive in Antarctica off-road on the sea ice. Granted, I only had to go 100 yards, or so, to the main ice road, but it felt pretty cool! I was driving on the Ross Sea to the Ice Town Airport. There are three airports we use here. The one I flew in on will be open until December and will then be moved to another location; reason being, it melts. Williams Field, the second runway, will be open for a couple of months, but is also on the temporary ice field. Pegasus is the third airstrip (and the furthest out). It is on the permanent ice shelf.

The second vehicle I drove was one of the airporters (it’s what you probably think of when you think of a hotel/airport shuttle bus). We drove those over to the Scott Base (run by the kiwis). From there we were able to have a closer look at the transition point where the sea ice pushes into Ross Island. We also saw Mt. Erebus steaming. This mountain is an active volcano.

Airport safety training finished off the workday, which included another drive out to the airport and on this occasion we saw a seal off in the distance!

As if seeing some wildlife wasn’t enough, I also got the first of three packages I sent to myself. I mailed it from Illinois on September 12 and it arrived on the same flight that I came down on, nearly a month later!

Pictured on this posting are (from top to bottom): The C-17 Cargo plane we took off in both days we made attempts, Stepping out of the door and entering the cold weather (it was a high of -8F), One of the first views of Antarctica from the plane, and my big blue boots (many people have white marshmallow ones, but I got these brand new blue ones)!

boomerang!

The idea of a boomerang is that when it is thrown, there is an inevitable point where it will return to it's starting point. Today, I boarded a cargo plane in Christchurch, New Zealand and reached that point of return 3:45 hours after departure. We saw icebergs and frozen ocean below and then received word that we were "boomeranging" back to Christchurch. Close to 7 hours later, we collected a stipend at headquarters and re-checked into our hotels. I am pleased that I packed everything I needed for an extra day in my carry-on bag. One of my new friends packed his street shoes in his checked baggage that we didn't get back and that left him with the big fluffy bunny boots that look like marshmallows on his feet!

New Zealand is an amazing country. The city of Christchurch has much to offer and we have been walking miles upon miles to restaurants, shops, and gardens. I've met a great group of people, some who I will be driving shuttles with and some who work in other areas of McMurdo. We are quickly developing a bond of shared memories and small adventures as we embark on the bigger one!

So much has happened in the last week and I have many pictures and stories. I will most-likely be post-dating some blog entries when I am able to get my pictures online, so keep your eyes open for those!

ducking out to denver

I've departed.

After a few long busy weeks of packing, transporting, and organizing my life all over the way-greater Chicago area, and packing through a power outage, I have boarded the plane with my two too-big bags and am on my way to my new "working adventure trip."

Today, I woke up, had breakfast with Erin, dropped off my last few items with Linda, ran to the post office to mail myself a package, put the left-over clothes in my trunk, parked my car at Erin & Ryan's, squished the last of everything in my bags, and then Mary dropped me off at O'Hare. Then I checked my bags which ended up being 4 and 5 lbs. overweight each. I pleaded with the very nice American Airlines lady, told her I was going to Antarctica, and she was kind enough to let my bags slide through. Phew!

So, after a shuttle ride to the hotel, I'm taking in the next two days at this place where the bed is twice what it will be in a week, and the weather is over twice what it will be on The Ice!
I've met a few people who are also going down, some for their first time, some headed to the South Pole (brrrr...), one from Chicago, one from Seattle, another from Alaska, and from Yellowstone!

Now, I have the space, time, and relaxation I've been waiting for...until tomorrow morning when I start orientating & training!

So, thank you for all those people who encouraged me, helped me store my material things, housed me, and drove me around, threw farewells, gave references, and spent time over a meal or coffee with me!

saying sayonara

I’ve never been real good with goodbyes; probably because I usually intend to see the people I am separating from again. I feel like the concept of "aloha" works best for me because it's used for a greeting and departure. Leaving typically involves an awkward exchange of mismatched emotions and unknown endings.

So, I’m glad that in my busy packing and moving, I’ve had little time to think of the separation anxiety I might have otherwise. My good-byes are a bit more than flippant, and not highly emotional; just good, hearty, casual farewells.

Friends and co-workers have given me a good send-off so far. Last week, the girls from work took me to Red Robin for my favorite Bonzai Burger. On my last day of work, Sonny bought pizza for the office and Dan sent over roses. I have a company dinner on Monday evening yet.

Emily and company arranged a nice send-off at the church. She decorated the room to look a bit frosty and everyone had to come up with Antarctic names for the desserts they brought. The most creativity was shown by Linda who brought a cake in the shape of a penguin! We also had Penguin Poo Brownies! Yum, Yum!

So, thank you for all of you who have been able to attend these events and thanks for all the e-mails and phone calls, too! I’m doing my best to follow up with messages. I apologize if they are slow responses!

chicago race for the cure

Saturday morning I ran the Chicago Race for the Cure. I met MaryAnn downtown and she walked while I ran. I clocked myself at 25:53 which I thought was pretty good since I’ve been neglecting exercise for the last few weeks! It feels good to run a race like that anyway, but has special significance this year in support of my mom!

After a long and extremely exhausting day, I finally got my stuff moved out of Tanya’s home and brought a load out to my uncle and aunt’s house. There is still some in her garage and a bunch of stuff I’m not going to be able to smash into my two pieces of luggage, but would really like to!

Half the day I had a borderline midraine, nearly made me sick as well. For now, all I can do is press on and hope that everything gets taken care of prior to boarding my plane to Denver on Wednesday! It will; it always does - somehow!

rhyme & reason

Most people who know I’m headed to the southern-most continent on the globe have asked the inevitable question, “why.” I’m somewhat embarrassed to say that I don’t have a good rational reason.

The tall-sized response is: “It’s an opportunity to have an amazing working adventure trip.”

The grande-sized answer: I suppose much of my motivation is to experience some change in my life. In 5 years, I have seen many of my family members and friends move to a variety of places from California to Massachusetts. Since visiting Matt in Cameroon, I have experienced an incessant need for travel. Watching my family and friends take opportunities to Europe, Asia, and elsewhere, while I was unable to participate, only fed the fire. Another factor is my frustration with the self-centered-ness I continue watching in western society, where the “me, me, me” attitude is demolishing the infrastructure of our cohesive “United” States. I know I have my moments of self-indulgence, as well (in fact, this might be a selfish move in itself to extract myself from the egocentric society I’ve grown tired of), but this may be a way to run away from the attention-grabbing, media-hungry breaking-news society we regularly participate in. Some may also say I am rebelling a bit against what is expected of me in terms of being a single woman in society; that I am defying the ridiculous notion that I MUST actively and continually pursue becoming a married woman with 2.5 kids, a minivan, and a house in the suburbs by age 30 (or even 35) to become “successful”. Whatever the root of the reason, I have tossed off what the world considers valuable in the means of possessions (tangible & others) and career, and forced myself to proceed on a bit of faith that God will provide what I need. In one sense, this change has nothing to do with me and my familiar comforts, and in another, it has everything to say about who I am as I step into a new adventure.

I would like to tell my Christian friends that I have poured hours of endless prayer into this decision to fly the coop and head south, but, it wasn’t like that. Yes, I prayed that God would use me in my life for His Purpose, and I pray now for who I will be, and what I will be a part of, and how I represent myself to others, but, at the point of decision, an opportunity presented itself and I took it. I do trust that God gave me this opportunity, has a purpose, and sent me the next step in His Plan in the form of an e-mail from Pete at Raytheon Polar Services. Pastor Fred told me on Sunday: “God will go with you.” I rest comfortable in that knowledge. An amazing amount of peace flooded over me with those words!

If you want the venti-sized answer, you’ll have to sit down with me for a couple hours over coffee at Starbucks and talk through dozens of life circumstances and stories. I’ll spare you those long paragraphs! But, know, that wherever this posting finds you, God is with you wherever you go, too.

the tornado

While I was in South Dakota, two of my cousins' kids were talking about a tornado coming. One was fascinated and hopeful to see one, the other was scared to tears. That's sort of how I feel as I am organizing and packing. Part of me can't wait for the journey and to see things come together, meticulously packed in my two suitcases (under 50 lbs. each) and one carry-on. The other part of me is full of dread and worry that it won't fit and my time-frame is too narrow. In South Dakota, the tornado never came. Wouldn't it be great if I could avoid a disaster of packing, too? Unfortunately, I'm due for some exceptionally strong winds as I pack up to go!

ticking time

I realized today that I'm too tied to time. I have 3 weeks until I fly to Denver and a multitude of projects, purchases, packing, and such to take care of in that time. And, just when we think things are under control--when we offer God our plans with open hands, sometimes he takes them and shakes them up, or throws them out. In my case, he added another event to the list: I'm driving out to South Dakota tomorrow to be with my family at the funeral of my Grandma. In the midst of the Antarctic mayhem, this trip, although long, will be a break in the frenzy. It will allow some time for packages to arrive in Illinois, and a bit more planning time before my possessions get boxed up or shipped out. And, it will give me some quiet reflection time to see God's creation and enjoy the people he has put in my book of life (whether they are there for a long chapter like Grandma, or a brief page, or two).

the closing of a chapter

Sometimes I like to think of life like a book. Except, all my chapters overlap. Yesterday, a chapter I've been living my whole life came to an end. My grandma died last night. She was the grandma who I thought would live for ever. And she did; well, she lived to 94. I didn't get to see her often, but I've looked up to what I interpret as a determined and strong-willed spirit in her. She made up her mind and that was what she did. She took care of herself after my grandpa passed away and looked after folks her age at the rest home. She lived independently until only a couple years ago.

My childhood memories go back to how much she loved being a grandma--so much that she handed us grandkids $1 bills at family reunions. Her T.V. never had real great reception, but her house provided a generous back yard for playing tag, firey tiger lilies that bloomed in the summer, a propane tank I always imagined being a big fat pig that sort of landed smack dab in the middle of the yard, and a creaky attic with all sorts of fantastic dolls, clothes and knick-knacks from the past (like my mom's old toys and dresses). I remember Dad, Matt, and I rolled the biggest snowball ever in her yard one winter. I played with paper dolls at her kitchen table and tasted Sioux Bee spun honey for the first time at her house.

With her passing, I've also been left grand-parentless. I've only ever known my grandmothers and hoped one day they would both be able to be at my wedding. But, some opportunities in life are not afforded to everyone. I feel a bit as if some wisdom I could have accessed and used later in life has walked away. But now my grandparents are wise beyond what our minds can comprehend. They are celebrating a far more great cause than any of my celebrations on earth. They have seen their Savior.

ontario ongoings

While I've spent a large portion of my trip to Ontario relaxing, reading, trying to shake off one virus--while picking up another cold, and getting things cleaned up and cleared up on my computer, I've also enjoyed some time out and about in various places with my family. We've been out for coffee a few mornings at the wonderful Groundswell Coffee House; which is unfortunately closing this week. I played horseshoes on Labor Day (my team took 2nd). Our family went out for a fancy dinner at The Globe. I can now say that I have seen Lake Huron. Tomorrow we are heading to Niagra Falls. Last time I was there, I spent 20 minutes quickly strolling the Canadian side before my guy-friends wanted to get back on our roadtrip to New Hampshire. I'm also hoping that my mom will help me with a few mending projects prior to my departure on Sunday evening. It's so great to be home!

common misconceptions

There are a number of misconceptions about Antarctica that people frequently make reference to:

1. Antarctica is home to the North Pole and I will get to meet Santa and his elves.
In fact, Antarctica is at the bottom at the earth; think South Pole (the Arctic is at the top). I will actually be situated on Ross Island, connected to the mainland by a permanent ice shelf. It is quite some distance to the South Pole from McMurdo Station. And, as for Santa, I've never been a believer anyway.

2. It never gets above freezing.
Actually (because of the southern hemisphere locale), it will be summer when I'm there. Roughly 2 weeks after I arrive, the sun will be up 24 hours a day. Temperatures will warm to an average summer temp of around 20F.

3. There are polar bears in Antarctica.
The truth is, polar bears are Arctic creatures. As far as wildlife goes, I will likely see very little. Seals and birds are more common, whereas, penguins and whales are much more ellusive. Other than that, I'll be happy to see grass.

4. There are native people who live on The Ice (ie. Inuit People, or Eskimos). Again, this native population find their home in the Arctic. The only folks who are on this continent are researchers and their support staff. No human civilization has ever been known to inhabit Antarctica permanenntly. However, there are 26 nations with research stations all over the continent and the ever-ebbing-and-receding population of Antarctica ranges from 1,000 total in the winter to 4,000 in the summer (CIA World Factbook).

5. Antarctica is entirely covered by snow and ice.
I'm sure you will note from my pictures, once I'm there, that a tremendous amount of terra shows through at McMurdo Station; particularly when the ice begins to melt.

cheap thrills and a happy heart

I got it! The Canadian stamp in my passport! I had to ask the nice (cute) fellow at the imigration booth. Typically when you're only arriving from the United States, you do not get issued a stamp. But, it's amazing what a smile can do on a busy Friday, near midnight!

I am happy. I was sitting on the plane, preparing for my takeoff to Toronto so amazingly gleeful for where I have arrived in life (perhaps part of that was due to the fact that American Airlines rather randomly upgraded me to first class). I had this feeling of gratefulness to God that was nearly exploding out of my chest. I have no plans when I get back and I'm enjoying the freedom of the unknown. My options are quite bountiful. I will definitely be doing some traveling (if you let me know where you'll be in the world in March & April and I may try and "stop in" on you)! In short, I've taken a step forward that I thought would be uncomfortable and risky, and I feel quite the opposite. Life is full of fascinating opportunities and I'm grabbing hold of this Antarctic one before it passes me by - and that makes me happy!

Well, I'm at "home." At least, I'm at the definition of "home" when it means being with your family. If you met us all, you'd probably note that we look a like and share many of the same mannerisms, but each have our own stride in life. It certainly creates a wonderfully rich banter of conversation and dynamic relationship when we are together. Even Sara, who recently flew to Beijing for the semester, has managed to call in a few times and catch some of the family atmosphere. I'm looking forward to sharing a relaxing week with them!

In other news, last week, in reaction to my "outside-of-the-box" new job opportunity, the other women in the office are heading to Red Robin with me for one last Bonzai Burger. I am so excited! If you haven't eaten the Bonzai Burger at Red Robin, you need to tantilize your tastebuds. Any other burger won't quite measure up after you indulge in the amazing mix of flavors on that hamburger! I wish they were mail-able! Mmmmm...

Well, I'm intending to head out to coffee with Dad in the morning, so I'd better sign off. Enjoy Labor(-free) Day!

true traveler

My travel plans are creating quite a noose around my neck - at least in terms of a time restrictions. Friday, I will leave for a 10 day trip to Alliston (Toronto), Ontario to visit with Mom, Dad, Laura & Matt (Sara took off for Beijing this morning and will not be there). When I arrive back on the 10th from Canada, I'll have a short 20 days to get everything in order! In the next two months, I'm going to log quite a few miles with American Airlines!

I am trying to keep preparing for The Ice, as well. I'm making purchases as sort of an investment for the next 6 months, I suppose - accessories for my laptop, downloading programs and music (since we cannot download music and movies from the internet on The Ice). I'm still working on getting a phone card, as well as pulling a few more items for my package I'm sending to myself.

There is a new picture of one of the vans I will most likely start off driving below (Laura introduced me to a number of other people with Antarctic blogs with all sorts of pictures and information). While more intimidating than a typical Ford van with the humongous tires, it looks managable. And, in bad weather, the red will be hard to miss!

what if...

"There is an evil I have seen under the sun, the sort of error that arises from a ruler: Fools are put in many high positions, while the rich occupy the low ones. I have seen slaves on horseback, while princes go on foot like slaves.
Whoever digs a pit may fall into it; whoever breaks through a wall may be bitten by a snake, whoever quarries stones may be injured by them; whoever splits logs may be endangered by them."

-Ecclesiastes 10: 5-9-

There are a great number of things that people fear in life. I think many of us could add things, or modernize this list from Ecclesiastes: Whoever makes use of air travel may plummet to the earth; whoever eats sushi may become ill; whoever uses anti-bacterial products may prevent their bodies from fighting diseases later in life; whoever sits by a lake in the evening may get West Nile Virus from a mosquito...

John Ortberg has a great illustration in his book, If You Want to Walk on Water, You've Got to Get Out of the Boat: "Usually maternal advice runs along the lines of Be Careful. You could get hurt. Don't play with that stick - you could poke out someone's eye. In all your life, have you ever known anybody who lost an eye playing with sticks?"

If you don't take risks, you also do not take in the rewards. Life has a 100% mortality rate. And, all the while we fear death, it will take hold of us one day. If we don't fly, we also don't get to travel and see God's Creation. If we sanitize ourselves silly, we may end up suseptible to a miserable disease our body cannot attack. So, I'm letting go and getting out of the boat. I'm going to try walking on water. All the while, I know that people (even leaders and rulers) will fail me, I could end up unemployed when I come back from Antarctica for longer than I want, I could freeze to death in an ice storm, I could fail miserably at this job, or the next, but without risk, I will not find treasure in this life, or what follows.

My life is meaningless and lost completely if I leave it to myself to figure out. But, if I believe and have faith that Christ has redeemed me by his death, then I have purpose in serving him no matter where I am.

"No one knows what is coming - who can tell him what will happen after him?" Ecclesiastes 10:15

information immersion

ki·wi (kee’wee)

n. pl. ki·wis
1. Any of several flightless birds of the genus Apteryx native to New Zealand, having vestigial wings and a long slender bill. Also called apteryx.
2. a. A woody Chinese vine (Actinidia chinensis) having brown fuzzy edible fruit with a green sweet pulp.
b. The fruit of this plant. Also called Chinese gooseberry.
3. Informal. A New Zealander.

RPSC: Raytheon Polar Services Company – The company that has hired me on contract.
NSF: National Science Foundation – The government organization that Raytheon provides support to.
McMurdo Station: The main US base in Antarctica where I'll be living
Scott Base: The nearby Kiwi base

Thank you for all the e-mails in regards to my new job. While reading through all the e-mail, I’ve also been getting immersed in the life of boots, fleece, wool, flannel, parkas, ice, flights, dorms, vehicles, and cold weather.

I just finished reading through “Info for New Drivers.” The amount of information was a bit overwhelming. Most of what I gleaned from my supervisor’s information letter was that people anticipate it being much colder than what it is and thus, bring far too much cold-weather clothing. While the average temps are anywhere from 0-10 F when I get there, they quickly “warm up” for the summer to 30-35F. I also learned that we drive vans for the first couple months, but when things start melting and getting muddy around McMurdo Station, we switch to the Deltas (which I pictured in the last post). There was also frequent mention of care packages (hint, hint).

REI’s big garage sale and Labor Day Sale was perfect timing. I’m in the market for a fair number of goods to make my trip down there more enjoyable. I’ve also ordered an mp3 player and have to get a wireless adapter so I can listen to music while I’m driving (from what I hear, it helps pass the time on those 12 hour shifts when we’re sick of listening to NPR or the Scott Base’s 80’s music). And, I stopped at Target for a bunch of toiletries to send to myself when I’m down there.

Crazy, huh? At the beginning of the year, I wouldn’t have thought that I would have been in New Zealand in October. Now I’m waiting for my Ice Luggage Tags (a hot commodity) and my tickets to arrive in the mail.

So, retuning to my un-ugly October theme, this October will definitely put a new perspective on the month. First, of all, when I get to the southern hemisphere, it will be spring; not autumn. After, I arrive to McMurdo, on October 10, I am hoping that Laura’s flight arrives on time on October 17, so she can celebrate my birthday with me that day! That would be a great birthday present!

the ice

Ant·arc·ti·ca (ant-ärk'ti-ka, -är'ti-)

A continent lying chiefly within the Antarctic Circle and asymmetrically centered on the South Pole. Some 95 percent of Antarctica is covered by an icecap averaging 1.6 km (1 mi) in thickness. The region was first explored in the early 1800s, and although there are no permanent settlements, many countries have made territorial claims. The Antarctic Treaty of 1959, signed by 12 nations, prohibited military operations on the continent and provided for the interchange of scientific data. (dictionary.com)

(picture of Mt. Erebus by my dear sister, Laura)

a.k.a. The Ice. I am going to there. I am headed to the coldest continent on earth, the most uninhabited, southern-most land-mass on the globe!

On October 4, I will be in Denver, Colorado for training and fly to Christchurch, New Zealand. From there, on October 10, I am set to deploy on a cargo plane to Antarctica! I'll be living at McMurdo Station, a town of 1000, or so during the austral summer (October through February). My position there will be as a Vehicle Operator, ie. shuttle bus driver. The picture posted here will give you an indication of what type of vehicle I'll be operating.

A million things are flying through my head right now. I have a little more than a month to prepare for this adventure; to pack up my belongings, finish projects, give my notice at work, store my car, and push off to this desolate continent under the ozone hole. Yikes!! Keep me in your prayers while I prepare!

If you want some more information on this great space, check out the following websites!
https://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/ay.html
http://plasma.nationalgeographic.com/places/continents/continent_antarctica.html

tune-ing into life

Music has a significant role in my life. Sometimes I use it to mimic my emotions and feelings of anger, apathy, delight, or excitement. Sometimes I use it to relax, or soothe me. Sometimes I find myself taking it in to stimulate and motivate me. Sometimes music captures me and turns my attitude toward its' melodies. Sometimes it prompts me, or helps me worship God. In fact, just this evening I ran by a house where music was flowing out of the garage and I could sync my steps to the beat.

I recently ran across an amazingly "happy" group called Te Vaka. I downloaded the equivalent to an entire CD of their music (from a phenomenal website for world music called, calabashmusic.com) because it encourages me to find joy in their music and in the world. This group is of New Zealand, but captures the spunk and soul of a variety of Samoan and Pacific Islands. It is my new "sunny" music."

un-ugly october

When I was young, I resented having a birthday in October. The month carried a sense of lifelessness; probably most apparent when I flipped to the month in any calendar. October, inevitably, has the most ugly picture of the 12 months.

For quite some time I day-dreamed about having my birthday on the colorful calendar pages of June, or under the snowpacked mountains of January. But, apparently, as I soon learned, you cannot will the month of your birthday to change; like you can't move the hands of a clock forward to make time go faster (I tried that, too, when I was about 5 and wanted to watch Mr. Rogers at 4:45, rather than at 5pm). So, I was stuck with ugly October.

My only consolation for awhile was that I had many friends who were also born in the ugly month. I appreciated my company!

As in all of life, there is a redemptive end to this story. I enjoy October now. It's the middle of autumn. When I was younger, I was not so aware of the seasonal changes, whereas now, October is a time of year where the air and the trees sigh with relief from the summer heat. There is change lingering in sky as cooler air removes the stagnant gunk of summer. I like the smells of fresh (almost frosty) morning air with a hint of dry leaves, the changing colors of the deciduous trees, and sometimes seeing my breath when I'm out running.

While the calendar pages typically remain the most mundane of the year, un-ugly october is now one of my favorite times of the year and a fantastic month for a birthday; the changing of seasons for the changing of years.